Big doesn't always mean bad and little doesn't always mean good. Aside from the marketing schemes, and loyalty conditions, if any beer disproves the idea that only a craft brewery can make good beer—that beer would have to be Genesee Bock Beer.
Yes, that Genesee—the North American Breweries conglomerate-owned, Rochester, New York makers of Genny Ice and the much maligned and infamous Genny "Screamer" Cream Ale*.
First brewed in 1951, Genny Bock has become an early March tradition, not just in Rochester, but recently across the state, as well. Sixty-years ago, just about every regional brewery in the U.S, brewed a bock beer in celebration of the vernal equinox. Unfortunately, that idea waned in later years—mostly because those regional breweries don't exist any more—not the way they used to, anyway.
Genny Bock is now one of the rarities.
This copper-hued lager is fantastic stuff. Goodness in a green can. Rarely do I anticipate the release of an annual beer, but this bock is that exception. What I like about this brew is that it's not trying to be something it could never be. It's the whole of the package, too—from its carmel sweet, mildness to its goat-kid mascot, hopping behind the retro-styled, san seriffed GENESEE logo, emblazoned on its can. Like AB, and Miller, and Coors, Genesee Brewing Company does have a family of brews marketed under another name—Dundee Ales and Lager. A trend kicked-off in 1994 with J.W. Dundee's Honey Brown fad. The brewery could have very easily slid this bock into that line-up, rebranding it under the Dundee moniker—but they didn't. Genny Bock is all Genny, and it's all good.
That's all that matters.
*Truth be told, I'm a fan of Genny Cream Ale, too.